Sunday, March 24, 2013

The Secret Sandstone Caves of New Mexico



In fall 2011, my partner Kevin was working on a film called Blaze You Out.  One of the scenes took place in a carved sandstone cave located near Espanola, New Mexico, that is known as The Tree Cave.  Kevin took a bunch of photos of this amazing cave – one of which we blew up on canvas and have hanging in our dining room – and he also got the opportunity to talk briefly with Robert “Ra” Paulette, the artist who’d singlehandedly sculpted the cave out of soft, naturally occurring sandstone.  Ra shared how this was one of several caves he’d created in Northern New Mexico as a labor of love and a gift to his fellow New Mexicans.  He sees them as wilderness sanctuaries that can help modern humans connect with their innate emotions.


It’s a little hard to understand how a cave could do that unless you see one of Ra’s creations for yourself, which is exactly what I did last weekend.  After much build-up, we finally took a day trip to see The Tree Cave along with two friends.  One was a friend who’d inquired about the photo in our dining room and expressed a keen desire to visit the cave.  Another was a friend who grew up in Taos and was the only person thus far who had recognized the photo in our home and was familiar with The Tree Cave.  So the four of us headed out on our mission to experience or revisit this awe-inspiring work of art that’s unmarked, hidden and known only to those who, well, know. 


Hiking up to the cave from the road, you are surrounded on all sides by regal sandstone formations, all jagged and crumbling.  It becomes quite clear how Ra picked this spot, as the creamy-colored sandstone is incredibly soft and malleable.  (That’s what allowed him to dig out the cave, which he does all by himself until he gets tired.  Then, as he told Kevin, he gets some folks to help him cart away the excess sand.)  The first sign of something unusual is a cluster of skylights in the hillside far above, which illuminate the cave with light and shadows.  Then you see the long, narrow entrance, and after passing through, find yourself in a massive chamber with a huge “tree trunk” column in the center.  The ceiling is so high (20+ feet?) that you have the feeling – and acoustics – of a cathedral. 


But it’s really what’s on those ceilings and walls that I find hardest to describe (and thus I refer you to the photos).   Creeping tree branches are carved in fluid patterns and interlaced with hearts and flowers, the two secondary motifs of the cave.  There are also a number of carved benches and seating alcoves, allowing you to sit down or step into a more intimate space for reflection.  Wall niches occur throughout and have been decorated with candles and offerings from visitors, including rocks, flower petals, movie tickets and rosaries.  One has also been claimed by a resident bird for her nest. 


Sitting in one of the recessed benches, I noticed that my voice was magnified within the niche, despite talking in a whisper.  This is one of the many atmospheric elements of the cave, like its cool air and the way the skylights highlight various carvings as the sun moves.  Looking around, I felt the tree branches started to look more and more like the ribbing on the interior of a human’s intestines.  Perhaps this was because I felt enveloped in this magical experience.  Looking at the myriad hearts carved into the gritty walls, it felt like I was inside “the lower intestine of love.”  Unlike other art that you look at and witness, this is art you can walk around in, touch, live and breathe. Upon stepping back outside of it, you can't help but be transformed.  You walk out into the hot, bright day marveling at mankind’s potential to be truly loving and giving.


Now, I’m sure that makes me sound like a real new age New Mexican, but it’s proof that Ra’s goal of creating surprising emotions and thoughts with his caves is not that far-fetched.  The Tree Cave is a very, very special place, and I am humbled that I was able to experience it.  I’ve since learned more about Ra Paulette in an oral history I found online.  Surprisingly, however, this was one of only 10 results in my Google search for information about him.  (The only major media coverage I found was an LATimes article from the 90s.)  He is a professed hermit, and it seems he likes it that way. 


Initially, before I visited, I wondered why Ra didn’t lead tours or charge admission to the caves he’d spent years creating (for example, two to three years per cave), but now I understand how antithetical that idea is to his artistic philosophy.  He no more owns the caves than the private or public land they were built on.  They belong to New Mexico, and I only hope that future owners of the land will continue to honor that.  


60 comments:

Anonymous said...

You saw this, didn't you Amy?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4sfj9rKXDo

I was tempted to drive up there while you and Kevin were in Taos. I actually found how to get there online. Oh well... maybe next time!
-Jeannette

Unknown said...

Beautiful rendering of the spot.... We were lucky to have experienced that cave and his artistry.

Brent Morris

Anonymous said...

hi, I came across your post while trying to look for places to visit since I'm going to be traveling to T or C, NM. How do I get to this magnificent place? any directions from t or c? hope you can help.
Alejandra, ELP, TX

Unknown said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Unknown said...

Exactly the message conveyed here..."stay the fu@& out!!" ..... For real? Well, an attempt to honor BOTH THE ego (Eli Martinez) AND THE SPIRIT (outsiders) of the ever curious human~ seek and ye shall find... Don't give up personal discovery for lack of direction! Charge on, go beyond the path, and look in the shadows. It's usually just under ur nose. Don't listen to d$&k-boy telling u to stay out, he' s just one of the ugly gate-keepers, all bark, no bite. Just calmly walk on by... Happy discovering folks!!!! America! LAND OF THE FREE!!!!!

Unknown said...

So it doesnt sound like anyone has found the second cave? the smaller cave near this one? Not sure what it is called but it is very pretty, I actually like the smaller one more than this larger tree cave.

Anonymous said...

Just saw the segment about Rob on CBS Sunday Morning. I assume that others like myself will be attempting to visit these caves. What advice for us beyond what has been written here?

"Miss Wanderlust" said...

It's been amazing how many people have found this blog post and contacted me about the Tree Cave. I knew the secret was no longer a secret when Jeffrey Karoff’s acclaimed documentary short about Ra Paulette (titled “Cavedigger”) was nominated for an Oscar. While I'm pleased about Ra's growing profile, as well as the increasing recognition of his artistry and achievements, it's presented a bit of a conundrum for me. You see, everyone wants directions to the Tree Cave, and the straightforward answer is that I cannot in good conscience provide directions on my blog or to anyone that emails me.

There are several reasons for this: 1) the Tree Cave is located on private property, and without permission, you are technically trespassing 2) the unwritten code amongst Espanola locals and those who know where the Tree Cave is located is that you should never give directions, but only take people there personally, so as to minimize the risk of vandalism, people getting lost or the property owners getting upset and 3) even if it were kosher to give directions, it’s quite tricky to do so, because the Tree Cave is not visible from the road, unmarked in every sense and just not that easy to find.

So I apologize for the inherent tease of this blog post, but my responsibility is to protect the Tree Cave from being vandalized, mobbed by visitors or closed off by the property owners. Thus, I cannot provide directions under any circumstance. What I can do is offer folks the opportunity to vicariously experience the Tree Cave via the Cavedigger documentary, which is available for download on Vimeo, iTunes and Amazon. Go here for details and downloads: http://cavediggerdocumentary.com/see_the_film.html

And finally, thanks to all for reading my blog! I hope to crank out some new posts soon.

"Miss Wanderlust" said...

One more thing. I see that Ra now has a website that offers a virtual tour of the Tree Cave, which he calls the "Tree of Kindness." You can find it here: http://www.racavedigger.com/racavedigger.com/Virtual_Cave_Tour.html.
Also, this New Mexico Magazine article explains why Ra and associates (including the documentary's director Jeffrey Karoff) guard the cave locations, and it touches on the safety and liability issues should thousands of people try to visit Ra's caves, which were not built for mass consumption: http://www.nmmagazine.com/article/?aid=84628#.U5C0rGJdWCr.

Anonymous said...

I also just heard about this on Sunday morning today, I'm planning on going to New Mexico the end of September to visit my sister, maybe we can visit the sand caves, if not, I enjoyed the pictures, beautiful

Anonymous said...

I would love to know who to contact in town near here. The local guide aspect is far more important than wandering into it. This is a treasure and to experience what this man has done would be an honor. To understand the surroundings and the people mean a lot as well as the art itself.

Erin said...

Hi, I read some of the cursing comments and was saddened. I know Ra, I know his caves, he is a family friend for over 35 years . . . I think it is ok to not have the caves open to the public, they are not public places and aren't in public places. But, it is also ok for people who do know him, or the cave location/s to go to them and just marvel at the dimension of his vision, and the gift of Gaia.

Unknown said...

Hello, we are coming from France to Taos and would love to visit Ra Paulette caves. Can you help us for the direction. We will be staying near Taos in an earthship. We have the website dedicated to caves www.troglonautes.com

Anonymous said...

You can now own the caves, as the private land owner is selling the acreage they are on: http://newmexicospiritualland.com/wfPropertyDetails.aspx

Unknown said...

I recently visited New Mexico on an impromptu weekend trip from Colorado. I found the 2 caves on the property for sale. Unfortunately I was only able to go inside one because they've put a door on the chamber of hearts. I've read about the one you can pay $5 to get a key to enter from the hotel. I'd love to see the tree of kindness and any of his other caves. If anyone is willing to share their locations, I would forever be grateful. You can email me at sugarbjams@yahoo.com. Thank you. :)

Anonymous said...

Oh no. With publicity comes greed. They paved paradise, put up a parking lot.. they took all the trees, put 'em in a tree museum, charged $5 just to see 'em....

Anonymous said...

He says he carved them so people could experience the magic and peace but only people who can afford a million dollar purchase can see them? doesn't seem right.

Vicky said...

Sad to see that yet another true masterpiece will be nly available to the privileged 1%!

Unknown said...

Can anyone give me directions from Albuquerque? If so that would be appreciated

"Miss Wanderlust" said...

Hi everyone, thanks for your comments and continued interest in the caves. Unfortunately, I have a rather sad update. The Tree Cave (full name The Tree of Human Kindness, as I’ve learned) and its sister cave El Nido are closed to the public for now due to vandalism and the concerns of neighboring property owners about safety, partying, etc. I was recently alerted to this status by the folks at ORIGIN Sanctuary (formerly Rancho de San Juan Inn).

However, another nearby cave created by Ra, called Windows of the Earth, is located on the grounds of ORIGIN and is open to the public with caveats. Visitors must make an appointment, sign a waiver, pay a fee and be escorted by a property representative to the cave. Potential visitors can either call or email to make an appointment or get more information: originsanctuary@gmail.com, 505-747-2374. Hope this helps for those of you looking for a way to see one of these magnificent caves.

I am planning to visit Windows of the Earth myself soon, so stay tuned for a blog post about it.

Joyce Davis said...

The most amazing thing I have ever seen. It is truly a wonder to see. I so want to see these caves in person. I have seen Mt Rushmore and the Grand Canyon and the Redwood Forest and other wonders but nothing has taken my breath away and captured my heart and soul as this wonder has. And to know that this was done by a mans dream and love of tranquility is amazing. Wow I don't really think there is any one word for all of this. Maybe it is peace.

Unknown said...

I take people there every year I've never hade a problem. I hate you darn tree huger's always trying to spoil someone's good time.

Unknown said...

How do I get there ?

Unknown said...

How do I get there ?

Jill Edelman said...

Hello,
There seems to be much confusion about the caves on the property for sale. The owners who live in Mexico were very concerned about the vandalism, increasing every day, as people were using them for their drug dens and defacing all the beautiful work Ra Paulette did. Bonfires inside the caves were drying out the material and large sections of sand were falling off the walls, which became dangerous. Neighbors were having their trees cut and dragged over for bonfires and all the neighbors were having trespassers hike right through their property. Those two caves were never on public land. Now there are doors on them to hopefully preserve all of Ra's hard work.

Windows of the Earth, the only cave of Ra Paulette that is available for public viewing, is on my property, Origin at Rancho de San Juan, and we would love to take you on a docent led tour by appointment only. I feel honored to be the new stewardess of such an amazingly sacred space and wish to share it with all. Please see our website OriginNewMexico.com and click on the Art Cave tab to find out more information, or email origin reservations@gmail.com I do hope the owners of the land next door find a buyer who will be able to afford to fix up the damaged Tree of Human Kindness, and I do pray people can respect private property and not continue to bust the skylights there and try to break down the doors. Someone took a blow torch to the small plexiglass window the owners were nice enough to install in the door so at least people could see in.

Anonymous said...

Please help me locate this..i am hooeing to see this before i die on this earth..i think this is extreamly amazing...do u have any info that would be amazing. I apriciate things like this and wouldnt lay a finger on his art. I just would love to see it in person. Email me please udrivemebonkers@yahoo.com

Anonymous said...

Would you be willing to give a tour for 100$ email me please. As i am very serious to view this. I am in no way going to harm this beautiful and outrageously gorgeous sight to see. You guys are very lucky to see this in person. Email me Udrivemebonkers@yahoo.com

Anonymous said...

That is so sad. I would hope better for human kind to act this way. Its amazing and its not fare to the people who would really want to see this and respect it. But if 1million dollars is what it takes to see the tree. That is just a way to keep everyone out then understood. I had no idea this was happening to his work. Some people just dont get it. This was marvelous and God himself would be proud. Hope this trully does stay beautiful forever.

Amber-Brooke said...

I live in Taos and it's really hard to get anyone to spill the beans about the caves,the sad part is its New Mexicans vandalizing them not tourists, New Mexicans have little respect for the land there is garbage Everywhere! It doesn't surprise me at all what has happened.

Amber-Brooke said...

I live in Taos and it's really hard to get anyone to spill the beans about the caves,the sad part is its New Mexicans vandalizing them not tourists, New Mexicans have little respect for the land there is garbage Everywhere! It doesn't surprise me at all what has happened.

Canada Man said...

I'm saddened to learn about the vandalism in the Tree of Human Kindness cave. I was privileged to experience this sacred space a few years ago, and it is a memory of beauty, wonderment and spirituality that shall be with me forever. Thank you Mr. Paulette for sharing your gift with many.

Unknown said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Unknown said...

Know what Idiot the people you tell to explore have caused severe damage to these areas these caves are now Closed Off Boards on openings of doors Locked because of Vandalism and Graffiti from so Called Explorers because some asshole wants to write his name and date he was there on the fu#@ing wall LAND OF THE FREE Of Course But A No Trespassing means Illegal to Enter Ignorant F@÷× besides this place is well guarded now $50 a person per Your Because of people that wanted to be happy and discover

Unknown said...

I've seen that one I just don't tell people bout it scared it will be vandalized like the tree of human kindness cave have you seen the 3rd one the mirror cave

Anonymous said...

The Caves are no longer available for viewing as The Tree of Human Kindness was severely vandalized. As a local to Ojo Caliente I do not encourage any one to trespass on private property in search of viewing this cave by Ra Paulette. There is one of Ra Paulette's caves that you can view legally, The Windows of The Earth. If you are interested in seeing one of Ras amazing work of art I recommend going Online to Originnewmexico.com where you can reserve a booking for a guided cave tour. This is the only cave that is available to tourists and locals to the Northern New Mexico Area. Although the existing cave as seen in the above photos is completely blocked off the vandalization actually got worse after the fact. In order to honor Ra's creation we do not ask of you to try to search for this destination. As in fact if you are spotted parked on the side of the road trespassing on this property you will be issues tickets and potential charges by local police.

jhon paola said...

I recently visited New Mexico on an impromptu weekend trip from Colorado. I found the 2 caves on the property for sale. Unfortunately I was only able to go inside one because they've put a door on the chamber of hearts.




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Anonymous said...

As people are still trespassing on this private land, the vandalism is ever increasing. Some have cut down my neighbors trees from his back yard and had a bon-fire in the Tree of Human Kindness. The intense heat of the fire caused a huge carved section to sheer off and fall down, which is a total shame and a safety hazard, according to Ra Paulette. I am the neighboring land owner with one of the caves on my land, open for public viewing in a LEGAL manner, by a guided tour (originnewmexico.com) and am so sad to say I recently walked up to these two adjacent caves with Ra Paulette and asked him how much it would cost to return them to their previous glory. He told me $100,000.00. Please, please help us all preserve these wonders for future generations and respect private land. The owners of this land are indisposed in Mexico and one of them is very sick, and cannot maintain security on their land. I asked 10 people on Easter to kindly leave and not head up the private road to view them. I know all of us in Northern NM are passionate about honoring our local treasures, so please help us.

Unknown said...

New friend and company if you want to stroll to the cave together . Bounce ideas off each other pmmelero@gmail.com

Unknown said...

We want to go, can I have directions from Albuquerque? What is the cost to see it?

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Unknown said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Unknown said...

Hello,

I have been a resident of New Mexico for about a year and want so badly to see one of the caves other than the paid tour. However I do not want to trespass and would pay a modest fee to be guided through with permission from a land owner or a proxy. It is so sad that this vandalism situation has gotten so bad. If anyone sees this and could offer some sort of permission to see the caves I would be very grateful. I will be in the area until April 2019. Please comment back and it will be sent to my email address.

Ashley Gray Duncan said...

Hi Andrea !
Please let me know if you find out a permissible and welcome way to view these precious caves ... I feel the similarly about a paid tour. Hoping to bring my partner on a surprise visit for his birthday tomorrow...
best
Ashley

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Xiola said...

Unfortunate that the caves are being destroyed
Even more unfortunate is the fact that Jill, the "owner of the Windows on the Earth Cave" charges you 87$ a person to enter this cave. Used to be 5$ a tour. Totally not the idea Ra Paulette had in mind.....so while I get that people are ruining one cave....others hoard these treasures for nothing more than a money making scheme and self glorification

Xiola said...

Jills "tour" is 87$ currently and you cant take pictures

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Anonymous said...

Could you give me information about the trees cave? I went to Origins and was not looking for the meditation, retreat experience. And for $85-! We are respectful hikers looking to tread lightly.

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originnewmexico.com charging $165 adult $75 for children. caution the website is not secure. your browser will confirm it is not secure. caution: do not submit passwords, credit card data on websites that are not secure.

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Anonymous said...

We prefer that no one visits this place before the movie it was beautiful now everyone comes to destroy nd carve their names in the cave walls. I was Proposed to in this cave back in 2010 if yu do visit please don't destroy the beauty a man made.